Huu Lung Climbing Area
Huu Lung, located in Lang Son Province approximately 110km northeast of Hanoi, represents the cutting edge of Vietnam’s rock climbing development. This relatively new climbing destination features pristine limestone karst formations rising dramatically from lush rice paddies, creating a climbing experience that combines world-class routes with authentic rural Vietnam atmosphere.
Overview
Discovered by climbers only in 2016, Huu Lung has quickly developed into a premier climbing area with over 150 routes established across multiple sectors. The area features immaculate limestone with diverse climbing styles including vertical technical faces, tufa-riddled overhangs, and dramatic stalactites.
Unlike more touristy climbing destinations in Vietnam, Huu Lung retains its authentic rural character. Climbers here share the landscape with farmers tending rice fields and buffalo grazing beneath the cliffs, creating a uniquely Vietnamese climbing experience.
Main Climbing Sectors
1. The Fishbowl
Highlights:
- The most developed sector with 50+ routes
- Wide range of difficulties from 5.9 to 5.13d (5c to 8b)
- Climbing above a picturesque lake
- All-day sun protection from heat
The Fishbowl is Huu Lung’s showcase wall, featuring a curved amphitheater of limestone rising above a small lake. The wall offers routes of all difficulties, from beginner-friendly vertical climbs with positive holds to severely overhanging lines requiring strength and technical prowess. The sector’s orientation provides shade throughout most of the day, making it climbable even during warmer months.
Notable Routes:
- “Rice Farmer’s Warm-Up” - 5.10a (6a), 25m: Perfect introduction to Huu Lung limestone with varied movement on good holds
- “Karst Away” - 5.11c (6c+), 30m: The sector’s classic line following a striking tufa formation
- “Project Alpha” - 5.13d (8b), 35m: The area’s test piece, featuring sustained difficulty on small crimps and pockets
2. Buffalo Wall
Highlights:
- Accessible, slightly overhanging wall
- Primarily moderate routes (5.10-5.11 / 6a-6c+)
- Quick 10-minute approach from the parking area
- Morning shade, afternoon sun
Buffalo Wall is perfect for climbers seeking moderate routes on quality limestone. This sector features shorter routes (15-25m) on slightly overhanging terrain with plentiful holds. The cliff base often hosts grazing water buffalo, creating unique climbing photos. The wall receives morning shade, making it ideal for starting early on hot days.
Notable Routes:
- “Buffalo Soldier” - 5.10b (6a+), 20m: Juggy climbing up an obvious line with a slightly challenging crux midway
- “Herd Mentality” - 5.11a (6c), 22m: Technical face climbing requiring precise footwork and balance
- “Bovine Intervention” - 5.11c (6c+), 25m: The sector’s test piece following a stunning tufa line
3. The Cathedral
Highlights:
- Dramatic stalactite and tufa formations
- Challenging routes from 5.11 to 5.13+ (6c to 8b+)
- Impressive cave features and 3D climbing
- Afternoon shade
The Cathedral represents Huu Lung’s most spectacular and challenging terrain. This massive limestone cave features dramatic three-dimensional climbing on stalactites, tufas, and features that project from the steep wall. Routes here tend toward the difficult, with few options below 5.11. The sector receives shade from mid-afternoon onward.
Notable Routes:
- “Holy Water” - 5.11d (7a), 28m: The sector’s most accessible route, following a line of tufas on the right side
- “Limestone Sermon” - 5.12c (7b+), 30m: A three-dimensional masterpiece navigating through stalactites
- “Divine Intervention” - 5.13b (8a), 35m: Sustained climbing on small holds between tufa features
4. Rice Paddy Crag
Highlights:
- Family-friendly sector with easier routes
- Grades from 5.8 to 5.11a (5b to 6c)
- Flat, spacious base area next to rice paddies
- Morning sun, afternoon shade
Rice Paddy Crag offers the area’s highest concentration of easier routes, making it perfect for beginners, families, and warming up. The wall features vertical to slightly overhanging terrain with positive holds and straightforward movement. The large, flat base area adjacent to working rice paddies provides a comfortable space for groups.
Notable Routes:
- “First Harvest” - 5.8 (5b), 18m: Perfect beginner route with positive holds throughout
- “Paddy Field Dreams” - 5.10a (6a), 22m: Engaging climbing on good holds with a fun, slightly overhanging finish
- “Green Season” - 5.11a (6c), 25m: The sector’s most challenging line requiring technical footwork
Practical Information
Climbing Style and Equipment
Huu Lung features exclusively sport climbing with:
- Routes typically 20-35m in length
- Modern, well-maintained titanium bolts
- Double bolt anchors at the top of routes
Required gear includes:
- 70m rope (essential for many of the longer routes)
- 14-16 quickdraws
- Helmet recommended due to some sectors having potential for loose rock
- Extra quicklinks or carabiners for cleaning overhanging routes
Climbing Seasons
Huu Lung has distinct climbing seasons:
-
Prime Season (November-March): Cool, dry conditions with temperatures of 15-25°C. Perfect friction and comfortable climbing all day. December and January can be quite cool in the mornings.
-
Shoulder Seasons (April-May, October): Warmer but still manageable, especially when focusing on shaded sectors. Morning and late afternoon climbing recommended.
-
Off-Season (June-September): Hot, humid conditions with frequent rain. Climbing is possible but limited to early mornings and heavily shaded sectors. Many climbers avoid this period.
Access and Transportation
Reaching Huu Lung from Hanoi:
- By private car/taxi: Most convenient option, taking 2-2.5 hours each way
- By motorbike: Popular with adventurous travelers, approximately 3 hours
- By public bus: Take a bus to Lang Son and then a local taxi (more complicated)
Most climbing sectors require a 10-30 minute walk from the parking area through rural landscapes. Trails are generally well-marked but can be muddy after rain.
Accommodation Options
Huu Lung offers two primary accommodation styles:
-
Homestays in Huu Lung Village:
- Basic but comfortable accommodations in local homes
- Authentic experience with home-cooked Vietnamese meals
- $15-25 per person including meals
- Limited English spoken but warm hospitality
-
Mr. Dong’s Climber’s Homestay:
- Purpose-built for climbers near the main sectors
- Dormitory-style sleeping and shared bathrooms
- Communal meals featuring local cuisine
- $20 per person including breakfast and dinner
- Climbing information and community atmosphere
Local Ethics and Considerations
When climbing in Huu Lung:
- Respect agricultural activities near the cliffs
- Stay on established trails through fields
- Support local businesses by eating at village restaurants
- Consider hiring a local guide to support the community
- Pack out all trash and minimize impact
Guide Services
Several companies offer guided climbing at Huu Lung:
- VietClimb (Hanoi-based) offers day trips and multi-day packages
- Climb Vietnam provides guides, gear rental, and transportation
- Mr. Dong’s Homestay can arrange local guides with climbing knowledge
Services typically include:
- Transportation from Hanoi
- Climbing equipment rental
- English-speaking guides
- Accommodation arrangements
- Meals during your stay
Development and Future
Huu Lung represents Vietnam’s most exciting climbing frontier, with:
- Ongoing route development adding 20-30 new routes annually
- Potential for 500+ routes across dozens of sectors
- Increasing infrastructure for climbers while maintaining authenticity
- Growing local participation in climbing activities
The area’s development follows sustainable principles, with local community involvement, minimal environmental impact, and economic benefits flowing to the village. Climbers are encouraged to contribute to these positive relationships by respecting local customs and supporting local businesses.
Huu Lung offers a compelling alternative to more established Southeast Asian climbing destinations—world-class limestone, minimal crowds, authentic cultural experiences, and the excitement of climbing in an area still being discovered. For climbers seeking adventure beyond the well-trodden path, Huu Lung represents Vietnam’s most promising climbing frontier.
